by Katharyn Privett-Duren
My very first ratatouille was a concoction spun from my own garden. Here in the Deep South, this classic French dish isn’t served anywhere local. Julia Childs had little impact on the culinary culture of Alabama. And yet, my memory of her slicing jewel-toned vegetables for a Provencal gratin stayed with me for most of my life.[1] While her own recipe for ratatouille is extraordinary, so is the level of work involved from start to finish. I longed for a simpler, more rustic, recipe that could utilize the bounty of summer. After researching and tweaking, the following dish became a staple on our farm. Rather than accordioned, the vegetables are combined after roasting into a proper stew.
Eggplant, zucchini, squash, and tomatoes should be sliced or cubed in roughly the same shape/size.
2 medium eggplant
1 large purple onion, chunked
2 small summer squash
2 small zucchini
2 bell peppers (orange and red work best)
8-10 garlic cloves, minced
Extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Herbs de Provence[2]
Sea salt
Ground black pepper (it’s really best to use fresh)
3-4 large ripe tomatoes (Campari is wonderful here—try for 3 cups in total)
¼ cup basil (for finishing)
¼ to ½ cup GOOD red wine (Pinot Grigio, Merlot, or Cabernet work best)[3]
2 teaspoons sugar (optional, I love to include a hit of sweetness)
*Upon occasion, I have added a smidge of spicy pepper—but it is not traditional.
Arrange vegetables on lightly greased cookie sheet/pan, leaving a bit of room so that they roast, rather than steam. (Consider keeping your tomatoes in their own pan, as they will have the most liquid and could cause more steam to occur.) Drizzle over olive oil just to moisten and sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Roast at 375 degrees until lightly brown—no need to go overboard here. While in the past I have added the whole garlic cloves to the pan for this step, I find that it often will scorch by the time the veggies are ready. Therefore, it’s a good idea to lightly sauté the garlic in a small bit of butter and add it in the final step.
To put together: place all roasted ingredients (including any remaining juices from the tomatoes) and sautéed garlic into a Dutch oven and add wine, herbs and sugar (if using).[4] Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees and return ratatouille (uncovered) to oven for 15-20 minutes or until the liquid has simmered down. There should be a bit of a jammy consistency to the stew. Salt and pepper to taste. Top with fresh basil (julienned, chopped or whole), and serve with good crusty bread
[1] “Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home – Season 1 Episode 20.” Youtube, uploaded by Hungry, 4 Jul. 2021, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrJ-ZPh8JBA.
[2] If unavailable, combine ¼ tsp. each of dried oregano, thyme, coriander, and fennel seed.
[3] To skip the wine, add another large tomato to the roasting process. But believe me: the wine is divine. The amounts of wine depend on how much liquid you would like, as well as how much liquid has developed from your tomatoes. Adjust accordingly at this stage.
[4] Try not to stir too much at this stage, as the vegetables could lose their shape. Combine gently.
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Katharyn Privett-Duren, PhD, is an English professor, writer, and farmer in rural Alabama. Her grandmother was integral in her upraising, and, therefore, had an impact on her understanding of working with plants and the earth. As an organic, biointensive micro-farmer focused on sustainability, Katharyn continues to reach out to her neighbors in an effort to teach them to grow their own food with minimal impact to their financial resources or the environment. From seed to harvest, she also works to echo her Cherokee roots in an ethical and holistic communion with the land. Katharyn is a Master Gardener in her local county district, as well, volunteering in the occasional outreach project in the Auburn/Opelika area. Katharyn and her husband, Todd, have worked to obtain a grant for a high tunnel, which has provided space and shelter to sustain a small CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture). Lined with fig, mulberry and pear trees, Little Halawakee Farm has become a haven in a section of the country heavily laden with pesticide and herbicide residues. Check LHF out at: littlehalawakeefarm.org.